Handy Partner | Transitions In UX Design
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Transitions In UX Design

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Transitions In UX Design

Det er folkelig kutyme at kritisere portionsstørrelser, når man er ude at spise.

Blev man nu fodret godt af? Et punktum af en fisk midt på tallerknen er tyveri, mens en murstensroman af en rød bøf er god service.

Et mere relevant kriterie for at brokke sig over små portioner er, at oplevelsen af et forløb, af madens komposition, forsinkede smagsnoter og forskudte nuancer mellem temperatur, konsistens og visuelt udtryk, kan være svær at registrere, når en ret er væk i to mundfulde.

Det glemte lam
Det oplevede jeg med hovedretten på Restaurantl, hvor en tommel af en lammeskank og nogle skiver lammetunge aldrig nåede at trykke til, før jeg sad tilbage med en håndfuld ribs og lidt indkogt fond.

Den ret er nærmest glemt. Men det siger også noget om de andre syv, som var svære at konkurrere med. For Restaurant  er fransk bistro på højt niveau.

Når jeg alligevel indleder med en bagatel, er det, fordi den tegnede sig ind i et mønster, for vinmenuen bød også på glas, der var lige i det mindste.

To slurke før og to under maden, og så var glassene tømt. Og så sad man der med tomme pokaler og ventede små ti minutter på næste ret. Der blev for meget tommeltrilleri mellem indslagene.

Men kokkene Lars Petersen og Martin Hylleborg fik alligevel bevist, hvad de kan efter at have klippet navlestrengen til Rasmus Oubæk, som havde dem i stalden, da stedet hed Oubæk og var berømt for sin bøf bearnaise.

Han forlod restauranten for fire år siden for at starte Mash, de to kokke overtog under samme navn og koncept, men for et par måneder siden udskiftede de bearnaisen med mere raffineret fransk.

En fuldendt forret
Vi bestilte menuen med fire retter til 429 kroner og vinmenu for en fordobling af prisen.

For en ekstra skilling kan man tilvælge trøffel, foie gras eller hummer, som jeg valgte til min stegte kammusling med sauterede små gulerødder, en luftig skum af gulerod og en dildcreme i bunden.

En smuk ret i orange nuancer, og både hummer og kammusling var saftige af hav og sødme på hver sin måde.

Rieslingen dertil, en ung alsacisk Coeur de Bild fra naturproducenten Bannwarth, var frugtig, frisk og let oxideret, hvilket stod godt til gulerødderne. En fuldendt forret.

Frisk og fræk klassiker
Min gæsts hvide Bourgogne, Vergisson fra Pouilly-Fuissé (2009), var en tilpas tør chardonnay med fad, abrikos og fersken, der passede godt til den parfumerede krydring af hans pighvar, hvor en fed estragoncreme mærkede grønne ærter, snegl og hummerbisque med sin sæbede signatur.

Det ristede rugbrød var drysset på som crumble, så det var op til tungen at smøre sig en mellemmad
Joakim Grundahl
Det smagte delikat, men estragonen tog lidt af rampelyset fra den ellers gode lille pighvarfilet og den lækre, letbitre bisque.

Så var der rosé til min tatar. En naturvin, l’Ocre Rouge på carignan fra 2009, der var smuk i glasset med orange spil og duftede let oxideret med noter af jordbær og sherry.

Der var let røg og god syre i smagen, glimrende til min tatar, hvor senneppen lå som grovkornede klatter ved siden af minikugler af estragonmayo, karse og to syltede stikkelsbær.

Det ristede rugbrød var drysset på som crumble, så det var op til tungen at smøre sig en mellemmad, og det fungerede rigtig godt, når sennep, råt kød og crumble gik i symbiose i munden.

Bjerg af blær
Det gav flere facetter til klassikeren, der fremstod frisk og fræk med syren fra stikkelsbær.

Min gæsts kartoffelmad var også et remix, hvor nye kartofler lå side om side med ristede rugbrødsblade, løgringe, trøffelmayo, purløgcreme og en håndfuld ventreche i kuber.

En potentielt ordinær tumling, men særligt kødet trådte frem som mør røget elegance efter urternes indledning. Og med revet trøffel som drys blev Jeppe skubbet helt i vejret på sit bjerg af blær.

Den lidt intense rødvin fra Piemonte, Sandrones 2009 Barbera d’Alba, gav med mørke bær, eg og god syre yderligere karakter til den hackede rundtenom.

Luftigt som et genfærd
Hovedretterne faldt heldigst ud for min gæsts vedkommende. Mit lam kom som sagt aldrig i gang.

Til gengæld var der desto mere fokus på den bittersøde og livlige Chateau du Cedre fra Cahors. Restaurant er dygtige til at finde druer til dyrene.

En smuk dramatisk tallerken, hvor blomkål som creme og tynde ark gav fylde og blød formidling mellem syre og fedme
Joakim Grundahl
Min gæst fik en frisk ung toscaner i glasset til sit svinebryst, der stod som en fedtstribet blok i en indkogt balsamico, der flød som mørkerødt blæk omkring halve bagte rødbeder.

En smuk dramatisk tallerken, hvor blomkål som creme og tynde ark gav fylde og blød formidling mellem syre og fedme.

Min koldskål kom med kammerjunker som lette sprøde flager, friske jordbær, en jordbærsorbet og drys af nød og kakao.

Genkendelig, men demonteret og genforenet i opstrammet præcision.

Og fantastisk sammen med dessertvinen, en 2011 Weingut Krone, spätburgunder weissherbst, der duftede og smagte af rabarber, men forvandlede sig til rose og jordbær, så snart syren fra desserten havde rørt ganen.

Genfærdet af en fin ældre dame
Min gæsts 2011 Moscato d’Asti La Lupa var let og sprød, men her tog maden opmærksomheden.

Padder af hyldeblomstskum gav floralt parfumerede puf som genfærdet af en fin ældre dame, inden hyldeblomstmarengs, passionfrugtpure, syltede figner og ikke mindst flager af brændt hvid chokolade trængte frem som materialiseret livsglæde af syre, salt, sukker og knasende fedt.

En poetisk komponeret og delikat dessert, som understreger, at Restaurant  skiller sig ud blandt byens mange bistroer.

Vi balancerer mellem fire og fem huer, men med opfordring til at hælde mere vin i glassene og mere kød på i hovedretten vil vi honorere velsmagen.

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