Handy Partner | Josh Woodward – Already There
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Josh Woodward – Already There

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Josh Woodward – Already There

Klassisk kvalitetsbevidsthed til den konservative side.

Sådan var det første indtryk, da vi blev placeret i en meget hyggelig lomme mellem rå mursten og ægte malerier af Trampedach og litografier af Carl Henning Pedersen og den Cobra-affilierede Mogens Balle.

Den sikre sans for god smag koster penge, og det er tydeligt, at Ulrich Doré, der ejer Restaurant Grønnegade i Indre By, har brugt en del på at få sine gæster til at føle sig afslappede midt i al klassikken.

Musselmalet Bing & Grøndahl og Laguiole-bestik, men dækket med løs hånd på træborde uden dug, så det er indbydende mere end blæret stilleben.

Bedsteborger på mellemklasse
Her er hyggeligt i det middelalderlige byhus, hvor restauranten spreder sine loftsbjælker over to etager. Men også en smule bedaget og stavgængerpyntet med Tage Andersens skulpturelle vaser og hennafarvede blomsterkunst.

Der er også lagt op til borgerlige fornøjelser med en kaviarmenu af ædle størrogn fra Baerii og Nacarii til 5-600 kroner for 30 gram.

Der er ingen smalle steder i den snævre bygning, og der så også ud til at være højt til loftet med en såkaldt gourmetmenu, fransk orienteret, men lokalt forankret i sæsonbetonede råvarer.

Man kan selv plukke fra kortet eller vælge en femretters menu for 595 kroner. Vi valgte et asymmetrisk parløb med to treretters til 425 kroner.

Med vinmenu skulle vi slippe 350 ekstra per person, så prismæssigt kan man altså lege bedsteborger på mellemklasse.

Desværre kom vi så heller ikke meget højere op at flyve end det, for trods sikker styring fra cockpittet gik der lidt automatpilot i den. Og en tidlig brøler fik os endda til at frygte for frit fald.

Salt fisk
Det skete efter en god og venlig snack af mild gedeostecreme fra chiffon med ristede valnødder, rødbedetern og tørret spansk bacon. Og det skete på min tallerken, hvor forretten bestod af stegt rødfisk med friterede skaldyr.

Kombinationen af let muslingeskum oven på og en cremet citronmayo under fisken spillede godt sammen, og lidt grøn asparges og dildkviste gav god krydret karma til havdyrene, men hold nu op, hvor var den fisk blevet oversaltet.

Mør og saftig, men smældende salt i hver en bid, der fik mig til at slubre løs af min newzealandske chardonnay.

Den havde passende lidt asparges i duften, mens de friske syreprik i den kraftige fedme var en hjælp til den salte og crunchy forret, hvor de friterede skaldyr smagte mere af uniformens frituredej end jomfruhummer, blåmuslinger, og blæksprutte.

Forsigtigt, men godkendt
Min gæst fik makrel. I råsyltede bjælker på en spatelstribe ærtepure og drysset med friske ærter, karse, brøndkarse og maltcrumble.

Et tyst og ganske delikat møde mellem hav og have, men man sad forgæves og ventede på et ekstra kapitel efter den ferske indledning.

Enkelte klatter af peberrodsskum sikrede lidt vildskab, men der skete ikke rigtigt mere.

Til gengæld fungerede den lette og friske alsaciske silvaner i glasset fint dertil og gjorde en godkendt, fuldendt forret ud af forsigtigheden.

Fare for indavl
Der var sådan set heller ikke noget galt med min svinekæbe, sagde grisen. Den var braisseret i hvidvin og trevlende mør, men smagte godt nok ikke af meget og forsvandt næsten i den pude af peberfrugtspure, den lå på.

Og selv om garniturens syltede piquillos hedder noget andet, er den milde chilifrugt stadig så relateret til peberfrugten, at der næsten gik indavl i den.

Da så også det røgede paprikapulver blandede sig i grisefesten, endte det hele i en lidt enfoldig krydret sødme.

Igen, det var ikke helt tosset, men kombinationen af stegt kød og bløde peberfrugter får ikke ligefrem Frøken Jensens Kogebog til at skrige på en opdateret udgave.

Heldigvis var der så både kirsebær, jord og skov i den kraftige pinot noir fra chilenske Ona i glasset, så grisen kunne få mere varieret landskab at løbe på.

Små bordbomber og god Pomerol
Kalven havde mere at byde på. Og vidnede om, at køkkenet også holder sig skarpt med nye teknikker og trends.

Culotten var tilberedt sous vide ved 57 grader over lang tid, så den var super mør og saftig. Let rosa, en nanometer tynd stegeskorpe og enkelt anrettet i en lys sky af fond og rosmarin.

Men den tilhørende terrine af braisseret kalveskank var tør, uinteressant og smagte mest af alt bare af de korianderfrø, den måtte være krydret med.

En sød gulerodspure lå som en spunkformet stribe med spor af en spiseske i midten, en lidt uoriginal teknik, der også peger bagud i tiden og giver fornemmelse af cruise control.

Det bedste på tallerknen var små rør af syltet gulerod fyldt med en løgpure, der med ingefær og dybde mindede om en sød chutney mod rørets syre. Små bordbomber, der brød isen og fik dyr, gulerod og urter til at tale sammen i en hyggelig stemning.

Særligt da der kom vin på bordet. Chateau Moulinets Pomerol fra deres succesårgang 2001, hvilket fortæller lidt om restauratørens sans for klassisk kvalitet.

En modnet vin i god balance mellem silke og tannin og med elegant bitterhed af kaffe og chokolade mod de mørke bær. Herligt.

Mellemfornøjet
Inden desserten fik min gæst en perfekt crème brûlée, og så stod den ellers på jordbær.

Friske, sorbet, pure og frysetørret på en meget sød creme af hvid chokolade og en lidt uinteressant hvid chokoladekage. Og så en kugle af jordbærmousse overtrukket med jordbærgele. En monoton marmeladefest.

Men i mødet med den sent høstede riesling fra Columbia Valley skete der lidt.

Den sødt parfumerede vins vanilje, abrikos og passionsfrugt og syrespil på tungen mødte jordbærrene som en lille prisme, uden at det dog ligefrem fik os til at se guld for enden af regnbuen.

Og med den meget tynde stempelkaffe i munden sank vi en sidste gang og drog mellemfornøjede tilbage til middelklassen.

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