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Danske køkkenchefer taler ud om de danske anmeldere
Får anmelderen en bedre behandling end menigmand? Og hvor meget betyder anmeldelsen egentlig?

Anmelderbesøg. Christian Puglisi er køkkenchef på Relæ. Her gives der ikke ekstra vin til anmelderen.

PETER NICOLAI GUDME
I 2013 besluttede den amerikanske kritiker Pete Wells at fratage Daniel på Manhattans Upper East Side en stjerne i New York Times. Han havde hørt varierende udsagn om betjeningen i luksusrestauranten, som i årevis havde fået topkarakteren 4 stjerner i avisen.

En aften lavede han en stikprøve. Han spiste på restauranten, mens en kollega, der formodedes at være et mindre kendt ansigt end ham selv, indtog sin middag ved et nabobord. Wells fulgte med i behandlingen, som kollegaen modtog, og konkluderede, at hans egen var langt mere ærbødig. Blandt andet fik han både mere vin og en ekstra amuse-bouche.

Det er en oplagt tanke, at man fedter for kritikerne på mange restauranter rundt om i verden og ikke bare på Daniel.

Men passer det? Og hvordan opfatter køkkencheferne i det hele taget anmeldersituationen? Når anmeldelsen publiceres? Og hvordan reagerer de, når de midt under service finder ud af, at der er besøg fra pressen?

»Satans også, at jeg ikke spottede ham!«
»Det giver hjertebanken og præstationsangst«, siger Jim Feilberg fra restauranten Feilberg-Baun. Køkkenchefen, der åbnede sin første restaurant, Fiasco, i 1998, har altid haft en urolig fornemmelse efter et anmelderbesøg.

»Indtil anmeldelsen kommer på, sover jeg stort set ikke. Og ved jeg, at anmeldelsen kommer i næste dag, er jeg nødt til at drikke mig i hegnet aftenen inden«, siger han.

»For det er jo ens fremtid og karriere, ens liv, det gælder«.

I december 2012 fik Feilberg-Baun 3 hjerter af Politikens daværende madanmelder, Erik Barfoed, der havde været forbi at spise, uden at nogen blandt personalet havde bemærket, at han var anmelder.

»Jeg tænkte: Satans også, at jeg ikke spottede ham!«, siger Jim Feilberg.

Satans også, at jeg ikke spottede ham!
Jim Feilberg, køkkenchef hos Feilberg-Baun
Tilknappet kendis-blogger
Madbloggeren og journalisten Andy Hayler har spist på alle verdens trestjernede michelinrestauranter. Og han gør ikke noget for at være inkognito. Det gjorde han heller ikke i foråret 2013, da han bestilte bord til én på restauranten Relæ, så køkkenchef Christian Puglisi vidste godt, hvem de havde at gøre med.

Som altid med gæster, der spiser alene, installerede de ham i baren rundt om restaurantens åbne køkken med mulighed for at involvere sig og stille spørgsmål til de arbejdende kokke.

Mange enlige gæster er meget udadvendte og interesserede, men Andy Hayler er en lidt tilknappet mand.

»Han er meget britisk. Og old school. Meget afmålt. Der var intet initiativ til dialog. Der kunne vi godt mærke, at han ikke var helt oppe at køre«, siger Christian Puglisi, der bagefter blev overrasket over, hvor positiv Andy Haylers anmeldelse faktisk var, selv om han ikke gav Relæ topkarakter.

Midnat på Rådhuspladsen
Bo Jacobsen har drevet Restaurationen sammen med sin kone, Lisbeth Jacobsen, i over 20 år. Hans puls slår ikke hurtigere, selv om han ved, at en repræsentant for pressen sidder i deres restaurant.

»Vi har altid lagt meget arbejde i at lave den mad, vi selv gerne ville spise. Det har gjort, at der er en vis ro over den måde, vi driver vores forretning på. Dermed ikke sagt, at vi ikke vil have en god anmeldelse. Gu’ vil vi da så!«, siger restauratøren, der godt kan huske første gang, han blev anmeldt. Han var køkkenchef på Kommandanten, og Politikens Lilian Kaufmann havde dengang været på besøg.

»Der var jeg skide spændt«, siger Bo Jacobsen, der kørte ind til Rådhuspladsen og købte avisen ved midnat, den dag anmeldelsen kom på, og konstaterede, at Kaufmann gav det maksimale antal kokkehuer.

»Ville ønske, jeg selv havde været der«
Gourmetkøkkenet Ova Nova opnåede ikke maksimum, men fik dog 4 ud af 6 hjerter af Politikens Joakim Grundahl i november 2013. Køkkenchefen, Thomas Poulsen, var ikke selv på arbejde den pågældende aften.

»Det ærgrede mig. Jeg vidste, at det var en kok og en elev, der havde været på, og ville ønske, jeg selv havde været der«, siger Thomas Poulsen, der bagefter kunne læse sig til, at anmelderen blandt andet havde fået friteret grønkål som garniture til hovedretten.

»Der tænker jeg: Hold kæft, du er et ungt menneske, hvordan kan du finde på det, kok? Det er sådan noget, vi gjorde tilbage i 1980’erne«, siger Thomas Poulsen, der har været køkkenchef på 16 restauranter, siden han blev udlært på Søllerød Kro under Michel Michaud.

Anmelderne skal ikke have mere i glasset
Thomas Poulsen kan godt huske de unge kokkeår og beskriver, at det dengang var normalt i branchen, hvis man genkendte en anmelder, at »give dobbelt så meget og ændre i vinmenuen for at finde nogle vine, der sad lige i skabet«. Det kunne han ikke finde på i dag. Som han siger:

»De gæster, der læser en anmeldelse, skal jo helst selv have den samme gode oplevelse«.

Christian Puglisi fra Relæ kender godt til forestillingen om, at anmelderne får en hel masse ekstra i glasset og på tallerkenen.

»Men det er jeg radikalt modstander af«, siger han.

»Kommer der en kok, jeg kender eller har respekt for af en eller anden grund, giver jeg ham masser af ekstra vin, hvis jeg har lyst til det. Det samme med min svigermor. Det er helt almindelig menneskelig opførsel. Men har jeg folk, jeg ved skal bedømme mig i en professionel sammenhæng, får de intet ekstra. Det er et integritetsspørgsmål. Det sætter mig i en dårlig situation, og det sætter måske også dem i en dårlig situation«.

Bo Jacobsen fortæller, at et anmelderbord på Restaurationen får fuld koncentration, men mener også, at det er begrænset, hvor meget forskel man kan gøre, når anmelderen først sidder der.

»Man kan jo ikke lave om på grundsubstansen på det tidspunkt. Saucerne er jo kogt«, siger han.

Billeder af anmelderne i køkkenet
Jim Feilberg derimod vil gerne give et par eksempler på, hvordan man kan være ekstra omhyggelig med en anmelders servering.

»Selvfølgelig er vi en smule mere opmærksomme på, at de her jomfruhummere er stegt perfekt, eller man finder et stykke kød, der er en lille smule mere fedtmarmoreret. Det er det, vi gør ud af det. Vi giver dem ikke gratis vin«, siger køkkenchefen hos Feilberg-Baun.

Han har efter Erik Barfoeds besøg printet billeder ud af anmelderne på de store københavnske dagblade og bedt tjenerne give ham et praj, hvis en af dem dukker op.

Ville være mere retfærdigt med et bredere panel
Men ideelt set mener han, at anmelderne burde være anonyme, så ingen forskelsbehandling overhovedet kan komme på tale.

Han forestiller sig, at hver avis brugte et bredere panel af ukendte prøvesmagere – ligesom hos Michelin eller White Guide. Så kunne journalisterne sammenskrive deres bedømmelser til noget læseværdigt.

»Det ville være 10 gange mere retfærdigt, end at vi har en klynge på fem madanmeldere, der styrer hele restaurationsbranchen«.

Konceptet skal være bæredygtigt i sig selv
Relæs Christian Puglisi har det fint med at vide, når anmelderen sidder der.

»Det gør én skarpere at have folk i restauranten, som man ved er mere opmærksomme på det, man laver. Man er helt oppe på dupperne, og det smitter af på al den mad, man laver. Den energi kommer alle gæster til gode«, siger Christian Puglisi.

Samtidig nedtoner han selve betydningen af en god anmeldelse.

»Et halvt år frem giver det gæster i restauranten. Men hvad så bagefter? Dit koncept skal være bæredygtigt i sig selv. Der er mange ting, der skal hænge ordentligt sammen, for at du får succes. Maden du laver; omgivelserne, du gør det i; prisen, du tager; og råvaren, du giver. Der er så mange niveauer i det, som en anmelder simpelthen ikke formår at gennemskue på én middag«.

Køkkenchef ønsker dialog
Hos Ova Nova er køkkenchefen godt tilfreds med bedømmelsen, Politiken gav efter en middag på stedet.

Men han er også nysgerrig efter at vide, om det var den friterede kål på hovedretten, der afgjorde karakteren. Thomas Poulsen synes, at en anmeldelse burde udløse en dialog mellem køkken og kritiker, som kunne hjælpe restauranten til at nå det niveau, de sigter efter:

»De skal skrive, hvad de vil. Men jeg synes, det kunne være rigtig fint, at anmelderen ringede og sagde: »Jeg har skrevet det og det, fordi …«.

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